It seems that the "chemist" and the "cave man" advocate very similar methods and neither really refutes the other's position. They are just trying to sell their own favorite products. What is the truth?

Some things are obvious by now...

1. Only superficial surface damage can be repaired. Internal damage requires replacement.
2. Surface oxidation is a natural process, it will eventually occur whether you have a UV coating or not.
3. The oxidized plastic must be removed before restoration coatings.
4. The surface must be restored with a protective coating.

All methods vary in only two points:

1) Remove the oxidation.

• Fact: No method of cleaning or so-called restoration will bring the head lamp housing back to 100% new condition. The best to expect is 95%. If you want 100%, replacement is the only option.


• Fact: Either method of removing the oxidation works. The two methods leave the plastic surface in different conditions altering the product or method for the restoring step.


• Fact: Grinding away plastic removes much plastic and leaves the surface with macro and microscopic blemishes which must be filled in. Proponants of grinding tell you that the polishing smoothes the surface. In reality, all polishes are abrasive with additional materials to fill in the pits and grooves of the rough surface.


• Fact: The chemical method removes much less plastic and leaves the surface with fewer blemishes. This method requires less fill to restore the surface.

2) Restore the plastic surface.

• Fact: Restoration requires a filler material applied as either a polish or heavier protective coating.


• Fact: Polishes are abrasives and their fillers are very thin.


• Fact: The most weather resistant coating available is two part epoxy urethane clear coat.


• Fact: Two part epoxy urethane clear coat is what the manufacturer uses to protect the paint.

Restoration Test

Wet your finger with saliva (not water) and wipe a small spot on the headlight lense.

If it clears, then headlight housing will respond to cleaning and restoration.

If the surface doesn't clear, the damage is interior, stop reading and look up replacement cost, .

For replacement parts cost: CLICK HERE

If your car is a candidate for cleaning and restoration, then use best services and products to restore the surface that will protect it the most. We are not selling products. We do not use thin polishes that will hold up no better than the polish on the rest of your car. Our restoration coating is the same product your car manufacturer uses to protect your paint: two part urethane epoxy.

Two Part Urethane Epoxy Clear Coats are NOT Cheap!

You can not go out and buy two part urethane/epoxy in a spray can and take car of your headlights.

Clear coat urethane/epoxy must be purchased at an auto body paint supply house and mixed on site.

Clear coat will cost you over $50.00 for the minimum amounts of clear coat, hardener and reducer.

Clear coat urethane/epoxy can be brushed or sprayed.

Spraying requires a spray gun and an air compressor: expensive setup.

Spraying requires a lot of masking off around the front of the car or complete headlamp removal from the car.

Brushing is cheaper but requires some practice and skill.

Brushing greatly extends cure time... up to 8 hours.

The best restoration method is not a "do-it-yourself" event.

Before Clear Coat

After Clear Coat

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Schedule an appointment: Call John, Home: 727-585-8464  or  Cell: 727-465-6841